Measure the blank
Put calipers on the coaster, card, or tag you engrave. Note the diameter, or the width and height, in millimetres.
The fixture I print on the Bambu P2S so blanks drop into the same spot on the xTool P2 every run. Print it once, engrave a hundred coasters framed identically.
A 3D-printed laser jig is the difference between eyeballing every blank and framing a batch once. Unlike a cardboard template, a PLA or PETG jig is a rigid, reusable frame that locks your blanks — coasters, cards, tags — into the same position every run. You set the fit tolerance yourself (0.2mm is a good PLA starting point), so the pocket matches how your printer actually lays down plastic. It exports a plain STL for any laser (xTool, Glowforge, OMTech) — no CAD software required.
Use a repeatable grid for matching blanks, or place mixed shapes yourself. The plate preview and fit readout update as you work.
The solid plastic border around each pocket.
PLA is rigid, inexpensive, and dimensionally stable for reusable jigs.
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Measure once, keep the jig registered, and every coaster returns to the same position after that.
Put calipers on the coaster, card, or tag you engrave. Note the diameter, or the width and height, in millimetres.
Enter those numbers, pick a tolerance (0.2mm is a sane PLA starting point), and tile as many pockets as your plate holds. The Fit Status readout warns before you outgrow the plate.
Download the STL, slice it in PLA, and print once. The jig drops every blank into the same spot for every batch after that.
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Fit, registration, filament, and batch setup — the practical details that make the STL useful at the laser.
A laser jig is a fixture that holds a blank in a precise, repeatable spot on your laser bed. Every item in a batch lands in the same position, so a design framed once stays framed for the whole run — less wasted material, faster setup.
Pick a mode — Parametric Grid for uniform blanks in rows and columns, or Visual Designer to place mixed shapes freehand. Enter your blank's dimensions and a fit tolerance, then download the STL. Slice it in PLA and you have a reusable pocket that indexes your blanks the same way every time.
PLA is the practical default: rigid, dimensionally stable, and cheap, which is exactly what an alignment fixture needs. PETG works if the jig lives somewhere warm. Keep the jig out of high-power cutting passes — it's for framing and engraving alignment, not for sitting under a cut that would scorch or melt it.
Register the jig against something fixed you can return to — the machine's honeycomb frame, a bed clip, or a strip of tape you leave in place. Run your framing preview once, mark that origin, and every future batch reuses it. The generator makes flat, repeatable pockets; the repeatability comes from fixing the jig itself in a consistent spot on your bed.
Yes. The Batch Grid controls tile a pocket into rows and columns — 2×2, 3×3, and up — in a single STL, and the Fit Status readout flags the layout before it outgrows a 256mm plate. In Visual Designer you can mix pocket shapes and sizes on one base instead.
Choose the printer that makes the fixture, see the P2S from the bench, or price the production run the jig speeds up.
Which Bambu prints the fixtures — size, enclosure, and evidence before model prestige.
Read Owner reviewThe enclosed printer these jigs are sliced on, reviewed after real shop hours.
Read CalculatorOnce the jig speeds up a batch, price the run and see what the repeatability is worth.
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